TRAVEL KUCHING TO BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

Spend your first few days in Sarawak's handsome riverine capital Kuching, using it as a base for trips to various longhouse communities and to Bako National Park, which includes some of the state's best beaches. Next head to Sibu to commence your journey up the mighty Batang Rejang. Go beyond Kapit towards the atmospheric interior settlement of Belaga, around which are the longhouses of the Kenyah and Kayan. A round trip takes about four days.

Return to Sibu and on to Similajau National Park, a little-visited coastal park with good beaches, to chill out for a day or two. Press on to the Gunung Mulu National Park - reached by a flight from the city of Miri - where you'll find not only fine caves, but also challenging hikes to the Pinnacles and along the Headhunters' Trail. Miri is also the jumping off point for Bario, the lush valley settlement 1500m up in the Kelabit Highlands. The really adventurous could then tackle the four to six day trek to Long Lellang.

Returning to Miri, head across the border into Brunei, spend a couple of days in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan then make a boat trip to the Temburong district.

Travelling around both Sarawak and Brunei by road, river and some times, you will cover some 1900km, passing through a fascinating range of landscapes and encountering many of the different people of Borneo. To cover everything will easily take three weeks - a month would be better.